On the Water Log, July 13, 2008

July 13th, 2008

I’ve been writing and traveling this week, doing talks and clinics, and haven’t fished. I will be in Olympia Tuesday giving a slide show on “Cutthroat in Rivers” for the South Sound Fly Fishers. I’m doing an all-day seminar with Curt from Waters West on the 26th on late summer and autumn summer steelhead and cutthroat fly fishing in West End rivers. My first “Elwha Friday” will be on July 25, if the river is in shape, and the next “$50 Wednesday” will focus on the Sol Duc and will be on July 30. See my clinic and guide schedule in the summer newletter for more information. Email me if you have any questions.

  

On the Water Log, July 3, 2008

July 3rd, 2008

Well, this is going to be a short post, because I’ just realized it’s Thursday and I’m in Forks. So I’m writing on a computer in the library. 

I have a few talks and clinics coming up. I’ll be at the Puget Sound Fly Fishers on the 10th, doing a slideshow on all the different fly fishing opportunities on the Olympic Peninsula. I will be at South Sound Fly Fishers on the 15th; my slide show there will focus on cutthroat in Olympic Peninsula rivers. I will also be doing a clinic on summer steelhead and cutthroat fly fishing on West End Rivers on the 26th at Waters West in Port Angeles with Dave and Curt.

I caught a nice little hatchery summer run on the Calawah last week. It was only 5 or 6 pounds, but bright as a can be and a real firecracker. From what I hear, it is one of the few hatchery fish taken on a fly on the Calawah lately. It hit a Silver Hinton on a dry line not long after first light. I had to get up at 3 am to drive up to Forks and then hike into the stretch of water I wanted to fish. 

I’ll have more on the Elwha, lakes, steelhead and sea-runs next week.

On the Water Log, June 26, 2008

June 26th, 2008

I have slots left in my July 2 $50 Wednesday clinic on the Calawah. I am also doing a “cutthroat in freshwater” clinic at Waters West in Port Angeles on July 26. You can see the rest of my summer clinic and seminar schedule on my Summer 2008 Newsletter.

I had a shot at fishing the Queets last week, much earlier than usual. I wasn’t really thinking about fishing the mainstem proper but, rather, concentrating on the fans of clean water off the mouth of a couple of its major tributaries. Sometimes cutthroat and summer steelhead will hold in these plumes, especially if the river is fairly low but still carrying run-offf and glacial till. Well, I didn’t get a chance to try it on Friday, when the river was as good as it gets this time of year, and by Saturday the warm weather had really kicked up the flow. It was bank full in the runs. I didn’t think it was worth the candle, as they used to say.

I did spend some time on the upper Clearwater, which is in great shape at the moment, as well as a couple of its upper tributaries. I was looking for resident cutts, as it’s too early for sea-runs, but didn’t find any. I also fished the Salmon without a bump. So, you see, guides and writers don’t always catch fish.

The best summer steelheading lately has been on the Sol Duc, although there are also  fish in the Calawah and lower Bogachiel. Like the Queets, the Hoh was flirting with being fishable with flies late last week, but the warm spell over the weekend knocked it out again.

Speaking of being out of shape, I want to mention again that Lake Quinault is still a mess and may very well be until at least fall. It got stirred up after the December floods, and the silt still hasn’t settled out. It’s getting gradually better, but there are  still only about 18 inches of visibility.

The problem with the lakes in eastern Jefferson County isn’t glacial silt–its algae. Anderson, Gibbs, Teal and Leland have all been closed due to toxic algal blooms. These are among the eastern Olympics most popular lakes. By the way, I wouldn’t even walk a dog around the lakes currently, because dogs have died from drinking the damned water.

Lake Crescent would be my pick for a lake right now. It is in fine shape and, as always, hardly anyone is fishing it. Use flies that imitate the lake’s juvenile kokanee and fish early or late in the day.

I drove up the Elwha Road yesterday. It was a pretty green, but still high and it will get higher and dirtier with the warm weather over the weekend. Waters West’s Curt Reed, who knows the river well and fishes it as much as anyone, has already taken a few fish when it was in marginally fishable condition.

I read a quote from Syd Glasso recently in which he said that the most common mistake fly fishers after trout make when visiting the Olympic Peninsula is that they come too early. That’s very wise counsel. Things will get better in July, and even better in August.

On the Water Log, June 19, 2008

June 19th, 2008

A few summer steelhead have made it back to “the ponds” on the Calawah. I’ve heard of gear and bait fishermen taking them, but the bulk of the run has yet to arrive, and they aren’t spread out through the system by any means. There are also hatchery steelhead in the Sol Duc but, again, not a lot of them. Both rivers are low and fairly warm. Although the Calawah/Bogachiel gets a substantially larger run, the  Sol Duc may be a sleeper under the current water conditions.

I have been mostly fishing for resident and fluvial cutts on the upper parts of rivers, which are in great shape right now. I took a nice honest 12-incher this morning from a great big tank hole on one of the Quillayute System rivers. I don’t usually like to fish deep, calm spots like that unless there’s surface action, which happens mostly in the fall when baetis and Dicosmoecus bring big sea-runs to the surface. But I had spent most of the morning wading and looking for steelhead slots and pockets to fish later in the summer, and had done little actual fishing. So I decided to give the pool 10 casts. The best part was that I got the fish on a gorgeous Red Ant that Don Kaas had given me.

The day before I wore myself ragged trying to find little resident cutts on the upper tributaries of the Clearwater and didn’t catch anything but skinny little juvenile steelhead. I don’t like to do that very long, so I went home.

For the last quarter century, I’ve focused much of my June fishing on beaver ponds. Indeed, people who know me well think I’m something of a beaver pond fanatic. I’ve taken brook trout to 3 pounds and many 16 and 17 inch cutts in beaver ponds over the years. Tomorrow, I’m going to hike into a pond I found last fall while I was grouse hunting with my Lab, Lily. I don’t know if it has fish or not, but it’s big and has a good flow through it, and access to a fish-bearing stream downstream. So I’m crossing my fingers.   

Actually, the best fishing on West End rivers lately has been for spring Chinook on the Sol Duc. Quite a few have been taken this spring, and I even saw a photo of a 30-pounder, an extraordinarily big fish for the river’s largely hatchery run. Springers aren’t exactly the easiest fish to take on a fly, of course, and the Sol Duc’s are notoriously difficult. But if you are going to be on the river anyway, stop by Waters West and pick up a few of Don Kaas’s Lab Rats. They work on Sol Duc fish.

When I interviewed Jeff Delia for the summer newsletter, he told me that he was seeing lots of young-of-the-year shiner perch and sculpins in northern Hood Canal about 10 days ago. If your sand lance and herring patterns don’t get you into fish, try some flies that look like these creatures. 

The most interesting fish I have seen lately was a tuna on the beach north of Kalaloch. On one of the big low tides we had a couple weeks ago, my wife and I hiked down the trail to the tidepools. We saw six eagles in the air above the beach, and when we came to a rocky cove two more flapped off the sand. I could see a bloody carcass. I figured it was a seal or dolphin, but it turned out to be an albacore. I though that was really early for tuna, but I checked the WDFW website, and it said they can show up in June.

I have slots open for my Calawah and Sol Duc river clinics in July. If you are interested, check the Summer 2008 newlsetter. The June “My Favorite Trout Water” trip is also still open. You can read about it in the “fishing” section of the general website.

I will be doing a slide show on July 10 in Tacoma for the Puget Sound Fly Fishers; it’s a general overview of all the fly fishing options on the peninsula. On the 15th, I’ll be at South Sound Flyfishers in Olympia; my talk there will be on cutthroat in Olympic Peninsula rivers and creeks.

Needless to say, the $50 gas discount is still on for anyone who lives outside the Olympic Peninsula and books a West End trip with me.

Jeffrey Delia on Cutthroat

June 9th, 2008

Jeffrey Delia has lived, grown oysters, photographed and fly fished northern Hood Canal for more than 30 years. He is one of the most insightful, creative and experienced saltwater cutthroat fly fishers in the Pacific Northwest. His Delia’s Conehead Squid and White Ghost are two of the most productive cutthroat and salmon flies for Olympic Waters. Indeed, my friend Marianne Mitchell calls the Conehead Squid “that magic fly.” Earlier this spring, Jeff caught a 13 pound wild steelhead on a yellow version of the Ghost in saltwater on a 4X tippet while fishing for cutthroat.

Jeffreys flies and photos are available by contacting him at deliajeffrey@yahoo.com or at 360-765-3795.

In this interview, I asked Jeffrey how summer cutthroat fly fishing in saltwater is different from other times of year.

Question: Do you find cutthroat in different types of water and in different places in the summer?

Jeff–Over the years, it seems we’ve noticed that the fish move to the deeper part of the estuaries and the mouths of bays in warm weather. You will still see them on the surface, but it will be in deeper water. And we’ll often catch them right on the bottom. I suspect they are deeper because it’s cooler. Also, in some of the estuaries on big minus tides you can wade out to sand bars in summer and there will be fish in the deeper channels between the bars. In Quilcene Bay, I’ve caught big cutts in 30 or 40 feet of water while fishing cut-plug herring for kings.
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Summer Newsletter, 2008

June 9th, 2008

Well, here’s the Summer Newsletter. It contains the usual description of the best fly fishing opportunities available this time of year, and my guiding and clinic schedule. In addition, I have a new essay on the Elwha that you can find in the “essay” section of the blog. I wanted to have a review of Les Johnson’s new book, but my publisher hasn’t sent me one yet. I’ll write the review as soon as I see the book, but I know it will be superb. This issue’s interview features Jeffrey Delia, one of the Olympic Peninsula’s most innovative and experienced saltwater fly fisherman. Jeff is the creator of Delia’s Conehead Squid and White Ghost, which I believe are two of the best saltwater cutthroat patterns around. You can find Jeffrey’s interview in the “interview” section of the blog. Speaking of flies, the newsletter’s summer fly pattern is the Gray and Orange, a Syd Glasso pattern that was the precursor to the Orange Heron. It’s a great summer cutthroat and steelhead fly.

My book was supposed to be available this month, but it won’t be out until until late August or early September. You can take a look at the cover, however, in the “publications” page of my website. The oil painting is of an autumn fly fisher on the Sol Duc, and it was painted by my good friend, lunch partner, and fellow Spey fly fancier, Jack Datisman. Jack did the painting of the trout about to hit a fly in my book Color of Winter, and he also painted the wonderful painting of Dick Wentworth’s 22 pound steelhead about to hit his Mr. Glasso Spey fly that hangs above the checkout stands in the Thriftway in Forks.

If you haven’t been reading my blog lately, I am currently knocking $50 off my guided trips on the West End for anglers from outside the Olympic and Kitsap peninsulas. The price of gas is obscene, and I hope this helps make it a little easier for you to book a trip with me. The discount will be in effect until the price of gas at the 76 station in Forks is below $3.75.   
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The Elwha Report

June 8th, 2008

The Olympic Peninsula has more than a dozen major rivers and countless creeks, but the Elwha River provides by far the best fly fishing for resident rainbow trout. Many fly fishers, myself included, believe it offers the finest rainbow fly fishing in western Washington. It is also the best river on the peninsula to “match the hatch”–that is, try to tempt trout with flies that actually imitate what they are eating at the time you’re on the river. 

The Elwha has been written about quite a bit lately, and many anglers from outside the peninsula and newcomers have fished it for the first time in recent years.

Last year, I heard a lot of complaints when the river wasn’t fishable until weeks after the June 1 opener. However, the Elwha is the peninsula’s third largest watershed–and has a significant glacial component to its flow–and it isn’t usually at its best until it drops and clears and warms up a bit. This is typically sometime in mid- to late July. Many of the newer Elwha anglers simply fished it for the first time during the years of light snow packs that preceeded last year, and came to the, reasonable, conclusion that fishing it in June was normal. 
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On the Water Log. May 18,2008

May 18th, 2008

If you didn’t read my On-the-Water-Blog last week, I am offering a $50 discount on all of my guided trips on the West End until the price of gas is below $3.75 at the 76 station in Forks. I know it’s an expensive drive to the places I guide for most people, and I hope this helps. The discount is  available to people who live east of Puget Sound or south of Olympia. 

The rivers reopen for steelhead and cutthroat two weeks from today!

This week, I’ve been trying to get my summer newsletter written and tying flies that I like for early summer–mostly Lady Carolines, Hoko Hummers, small Speys, and traditional cutthroat wet flies like Silver Browns, Silver Ladys and Royal Coachman bucktails.

attempted to fish several mornings  but it was uncomfortably foggy and the surf was too high and inconsistent for perch fishing. I also managed to get a flat tire trying to reach the trailhead for a backcountry lake. I think I was the first person down the road after they laid a fresh load of gravel, and the stones were very sharp. I’m  thankful I only had one flat.

The hot weather has really brought out the carpenter ants. On coastal lakes, even the largest trout will feed on the surface when the big ants are on the water. The ants live in cedar snags and the ones that end up on lakes are from colonies that are on the move to find a new home. They appear during the first big warm spell in late May or June. 
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On the Water Log, May 11,2008

May 11th, 2008

Well, spring has finally, grudgingly, settled in over the Olympic Peninsula. It was still snowing every few days when I wrote my last post in late April, and there was snow on the ground when I drove up to Forks to meet my last winter steelhead client on April 21.  But there is Indian paintbrush on the sunny bluffs north of Kalaloch now, and we’re getting the big daytime minus tides, and I saw my first bandtailed pigeons a couple of weeks ago. The worst winter in a long time is finally over.

It’s hard to believe, but in a couple of weeks I’ll be casting Lady Carolines and Muddler Minnows on the Sol Duc and Calawah for summer steelhead.

One last note on the winter season that just ended. My last client and I were blown off the lower Bogachiel, where I really wanted to fish, and didn’t rise a fish on the Sol Doc in the afternoon. It was an odd, not particularly satisfying conclusion to a season that probably can be best be summarized as odd and not particularly satsifying. A good friend of mine, who has fished West End rivers for 60 years put it this way, “You know it’s not a very good year when the plunkers don’t catch many fish.”

Personally, I did better than I have in a long time,  but that was simply a matter of proximity. I live a few minutes from the Clearwater and the Queets and can squeeze in a a couple hours at the beginning and end of the day. Other than that, the only fly fishers that I know who regularly did well last season were the nymph fishermen in boats.

I have caught a few trout  in the tidal portions of the Quillayute recently. I wrote about this fishery in the spring newslwetter. The largest was probably 13 inches and the smallest was about 10. They both hit a baitfish pattern similar to Roderick Haig-Brown’s Silver Brown. I fished from the bank, but you’ll cover a lot more water if you have a boat with a motor. Incidentally, smelt move into the lower Quillayute this time of year, and the larger cutthroat are well aware of them.

I haven’t been as successful with surf-perch. On days that I have been able to get out, the waves have either been too big or unpredictable. I realize I’m trying to push the season with the fly rod a little, but some folks I know have already taken them on bait. I’ll keep you posted.

For  me, May has always been a month for scouting, a time to prospect new water and to check about holes and runs I haven’t fished for a while. My goal is to add to my roster of places to fish for summer steelhead and cutthroat after the June opener. To that end, I have put in quite a bit of time bushwhacking the upper ends of some tributary streams. I will fish them for resident cutts in June. I’ve also found two promising hike-in steelhead drifts on the Calawah and Bogachiel.

I spent a day on the upper Quinault mainstem last week. I did all my fishing on the Quinault last winter by hiking into isolated, discrete spots from the North Shore Road. You get more expansive views of the river from the South Shore Road, and I was amazed by how much it seems to have changed. If you haven’t been up there since the December storm, you’ll definitely want to put in some time before you plan a trip for next winter. You’ll also be truly impressed by the amount of blowdown and road damage.

I am well aware of how daunting the price of gas is for fly fishers contemplating a trip to the West End. So from now on, I’m giving a $50 discount on all of my posted prices to anyone who lives on the east side of Puget Sound or south of Olympia. The rate is is effect until the price of gas at the 76 Station in Forks is below $3.50.  The one exception is for saltwater cutthroat trips, because I have to drive to Hood Canal for them.

Finally, look for the summer newsletter a little early this time, perhaps by the 20th of May. It’ll have essays on the Elwha, which I intend to focus on a lot this summer, along with summer steelhead and sea-runs. It will also have a color photo of my new book,  interview, and book review of Les Johnson’s new book  

On the Water Log, April 18,2008

April 18th, 2008

My steelhead season on the rain forest rivers ended with a nice flourish–almost.

I planned to fish all day Monday and Tuesday on the Queets, Quinault and Clearwater, which closed on the 15th. But things didn’t work out that way. I ended up having to go into Forks on Monday, and the day just sort of slipped away. Then on Tuesday morning something related to an article I’m working on came up, and I had to run down to Amanda Park. By then, I had pretty much written off the steelhead season for the rivers near my house.

To make a long story short, I ended up driving over to a walk in spot I like on the Clearwater late in the afternoon and briefly hooked a fish. It was about 14 pounds. It was pewter-colored, that shade just a touch darker than a truly bright steelhead, with a splash of salmonberry blossom on its gill plates. It made a nice long initial run, jumped twice, and threw the hook.

I wasn’t disappointed in the least. I didn’t expect anything, and it was  definitely not how short, late season trips usually turn out. The Quillayute System rivers are open through April, of course, and I have a couple more trips booked. But the winter steelhead season is definitely winding down.

I haven’t caught anything on my surfperch fishing trips yet. I tried a good beach north of Kaloloch yesterday, and was litterally blown off the water. The waves were probably three or four feet, and the wind was terrible. I didn’t even bother this morning, because it was hailing, the sky looked like a three-day-old black eye, and I could hear the surf from our house, three miles from the coast.

I spent the afternoon tying flies for the beach and an alevin pattern for a mid-elevation lake I want to fish as soon as the weather improves a little bit. It has wild cutts in it, and they like small fry patterns.    

I fish the surf and lakes for fun this time of year, but my guiding from now until the June 1 river opener focuses on cutthroat on eastern Olympic saltwater beaches. I have access to several extensive stretches of private water on Dabob Bay, as well as public beaches that don’t receive a lot of pressure. I can also connect you with a cabin where you can stay within walking distance of the canal.

There is more variety and more quantity of food in the nearshore saltwater during late spring than at any other time of year. The chum fry are still on the move, and by the end of April the fish should also begin to target young-of-the-year sand lance, surf smelt and, a little later, herring. There are also a lot of invertebrates–shrimp and amphipods and isopods. Sea-runs also key in on polychaete worms in the spring.

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